Make your readyMade shirt collars into pin collars shirts

Before you can make decisions you have to understand the words that give you the knowledge or the power to make those decisons. We will show you samples of whats available and explanations for those samples. Any Questions call toll free 1-888-467-4478.

There are basically three styles of shirt front closures or extensions for dress shirts. There many more but normally not used on dress shirts.

bodyStylesThe first is the French (dia-A)which is considered very elegant and smooth. No edge stitching but there are exceptions

edgeStitchThe second is what I call the box (dia-B)which normally has either edge stitching or 1/4" top stitching . The total width(Dia-B) can range from 1" to 1-3/4" but there are exception.

The Third type is the Hidden buttonhole(dia-C). There may be an edge stitch or a seam depending on how is constructed.

Take any of the above and look at the buttonholes. The buttonholes are normally placed in the middle of the shirt front or center front.. Even the hiddenbuttonhole is in the middle.

center frontLook at (dia-G) the line runs down the center of the body(This line in patternmaking is called the center front). This is where the buttonholes and buttons should be placed.

collar HeightNow look at (dia-H) this part is call the collar extension and can be in width of 5/8" to 7/8" and always there are exceptions. Normally if you double the collar extension width it will equal the width of the front extension.

Diagram(H)show you the names for the parts of the collar. There are normally two parts to a collar. The band which attaches to the neckline and the actual collar which is attached to the band. Its an oxymoron or misnomer, we refer to the two as the collar but when we use the band only we still classify it as a collar. collar height and band height come in various measurements from 1/2" to 1-1/2 but there are exceptions. Normally the collar height is 3/8" wider than the band, again there are exceptions.

collar SpreadThe collar spread comes in various degrees as in(dia-M). There is no right or wrong, its all about fashion trend or preference. When you find a spread you like we can copy it and keep it on file.

The collar point length is measured from the band to the end of collar as in (Dia-H).Many factors determine your collar length, your height, neck size, neck length. Look for a balance.

The tie space(Dia-M) can vary from 3/4" to none. When there is none it is generally referred to as being closed.

The tie space,collar point length and the collar spread will determine where you might place the pin holes. Check the samples out to get an Idea. Nothing is set in concrete.

Try On ..put your shirt on ,button the collar, put your tie on and guage the placement for your particular style. Compare with samples. Mark hole placement with pencil,chalk,or water soluble pen (get at fabric store...use blue color).

Measure your collar size as in (dia-H)Notice the center front placement of buttonholes, most shirtmakers give you extra expansion length by move the button beyond the center front of shirt.

 

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